Monthly Archives: January 2017

Alternative Facts?

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Donald spent his first day as President worried about the size of his “hands” inaugural attendance. It was unbelievable. Having been in DC since Tuesday of Inaugural Week we saw first hand the low turn out of Trump supporters across the city. We were staying at the Marriott Marquis (attached to the convention center where the simpleton named “Liberty” and “Freedom” balls were held on Inauguration night). We ate at empty local restaurants and coffee shops, walked and commented on the deserted streets, strolled the ghostly Mall and its zombie apocalyptic atmosphere, and visited several sparsely attended museums. Throughout it all, the presence and enthusiasm of Trump supporters were dour and tepid. Even on the night of Trump’s big balls the 01%s in attendance (99% white attendees) swathed in furs and gowns had little enthusiasm amongst them. It was like the moment of trepedation at the prom in the movie Carrie (before Carrie had the bucket of pig blood poured upon her) everybody in attendence seemingly knew what they were doing was wrong but they were going through the motions regardless of the consequences.

We were with hordes of humanithy (estimates from 600k – 1m) marching in DC who were loving, enthusiastic, and united. It was a great day only made better by meeting some friends we haven’t seen for years at another José Andrés restaurant – Zaytinya. We had a great dinner (the restaurant was packed! The waiter telling us it had been near empty all week but today had been a madhouse). Then we stayed up late with our friends drinking in our room and watching Saturday Night Live. Brilliant! In particular, the segment on Kellyanne Conway was amazing. It was shocking to see her on Meet the Press the next morning telling Chuck Todd that Sean Spicer’s first official announcement as White House Press Secretary was presenting “Alternative Facts”. You may know these by their more common name: Lies. Defending Sean Spicer blatant lying to the whole world about the size of Trump’s “hands” inaugural attendance, (puny when compared to the Women’s March) was just mind-numbing. Not to mention Trump’s visit to the CIA during the Women’s March to declare war on the media and complain about his size.

We didn’t know what to do with ourselves. But we quickly figured it out. We went to the Newseum. The Newseum focuses on the First Amendment (the part about a free press) as well as the history and role of a free press in our Democracy. Freedom of speech gives Trump the freedom to lie to us, but also gives us the responsibility and moral authority to call him out for it.

The first thing we saw while waiting in line to get in (and more on display inside) were the front pages of today’s newspapers from around the country and the world. Here is a sampling of about 50 of them:

The Newseum is a great museum. It was powerful and moving. The exhibit on 9/11 moved me to tears several times (they have boxes of tissues strategically stationed around the display). I was so choked up and had to step away from the exhibit several times for fear I would absolutely sob and bawl out loud.

Another exhibit examples freedom of the press across the globe and the risks that journalists and photographers go through to bring us the truth. Many putting themselves in harm’s way or sacrificing themselves to document our story. Our Story. Our Truth. The Truth. Not “Alternative Facts”. I’d love to know where Sean Spicer and Kellyanne Conway deposited their souls for safe keeping before joining Trump’s team; if they had one to begin with.

There was another exhibit on the Berlin wall (with a watch tower and a section of the wall). You walked from the West Side to the East Side and experienced differences in the first (and other) amendments. It was bleak to realize how much some of the East Berlin sides sounded like Trump’s rhetoric.

I choked up again at the Pulitzer Prize winning photo exhibit (100 years old this year and 100 photos on display with commentary). I didn’t take photos of the award winning photos (using an iPhone to take the pictures just seemed inappropriate). But I did find this quote good.

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It was a great way to bring to an end a political trip of a lifetime. We joins hundreds of others (nearly the entire flight in pink hats) on our flight back to Seattle.

 

 

 

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Mother Fucking Girl Power! (Women’s March January 20, 2017)

Up early. Feeling better. Fired Up! Ready to Go!

We donned our gear and headed out early for the Women’s March on Washington.

The presence of Trump supporters between inauguration day and Women’s March day was the difference between night and day. You couldn’t look anywhere without seeing a pink hat and we had a 30-minute walk from our hotel to the Mall. We headed down there as the crowds gathered. It was so crowded at 9 am we couldn’t get to the starting point of the march (which  was to start at 1:15 but didn’t start until well after 2 pm). We got to the corner of 4th and Jefferson and it was a wall of humanity. We stayed put.

We spent 5 hours standing in one spot waiting for the march to begin watching Madonna, Michael Moore, Alicia Keys, Gloria Steinem, Scarlett Johansson, America Ferrera, Angela Davis, Ashley Judd, etc….

And chanting:

  • Science is real!
  • We pay taxes, how about you?
  • We need a leader, not a lying tweeter!
  • Show me what Democracy looks like / This is what Democracy looks like
  • Women’s Rights are Human Rights
  • Love Trumps Hate
  • Thank you, Obama
  • Thank you, Michelle
  • Yes, we can!
  • No Trump, No KKK, No Fascist USA!
  • Fired Up! Ready to Go!
  • Not my President
  • We need a leader, not a racist tweeter!
  • Welcome to your first day, we will not go away!
  • Black Lives Matter. Hands up / Don’t shoot!

OMG! Lots of signs here. Enjoy them all!

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About 2 pm people got tired of waiting for the speakers to finish (you couldn’t hear them well) so they just started marching into the Mall (the march was supposed to go only down Independence Ave, but it was so crowded Indepence was full from 3rd Ave to the Washington Monument. So people started marching down Jefferson, The Mall, Constitution Ave, and Pensylvania Ave. Estimates of numbers we hear we close to 1 Million or more people. It was amazing.

We got stuck at 7th between Madison and Constitution for a long time trying to get off the mall and march down Constitution towards the White House. It took a long time but we finally got through. We then found ourselves at Trump International Hotel where thousands of people had started dropping off their protest signs.

Categories: Inauguration, Washington DC, Women's March | Leave a comment

Avoiding Catastrophy (Inauguration Day)

Today was a difficult day. Woke up sick. Went back to bed. Finally got up about 10:30 am to protests outside our hotel.

Our plan for the day? Avoid the inauguration and ignore it as much as possible. We decided to go to the International Spy Museum. We put on socks we felt were appropriate for the day and headed outside.

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We exited our hotel to a maze of chain link fences, snow trucks and busses blocking the streets, police in full riot gear, helicopters overhead, protesters in the street. We were in full on inauguration day in Trump’s America.

We worked our way down to the Spy Museum and went on a great interactive spy adventure before touring the museum while Trump was being inagurated. We spent a few hours there amoungst the memoribilia of the CIA and the KGB and 007 movies. During one of the films about the cold war it mentioned how the KGB always wanted to get somebody into the White House. Well…now they finally have. Well played Putin.

When we came out of the museum there was more chaos. Protesters in the street. Lots of security. Some Trump supporters were there but in general the Trumpers and Trumpets seemed outnumbered by police and protesters. We headed back to our hotel to catch some news and realized our hotel had all the fencing and protests around it because that is where all the white people with fur coats on were queuing up to get into the “Liberty” and “Freedom” balls. The fencing, police, and furs were nearly as thick as the irony of the ball’s namesake. Sigh…

 

 

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Awaiting Catastrophy

Thursday we headed to the National Museum of the American Indian by jumping in an Uber. “I’ve lived in DC my whole life, some 50 years, and I’ve never seen so much security and road closures.”. We had to make a long loop around DC to get from our hotel near the Mall and then still walk a considerable distance to the museum. There were so many fences and closed streets it was eerie. There was nobody around but the occasional lookee-loo getting their barrings for the upcoming event.

The museum is architecturally interesting and contains a comprehensive collection of Native histories. What stood out for me was the exhibit on universes and world perspectives from different tribes. It was fascinating to read their stories and histories and see the similarities and differences between them.

What probably stood out more, given the political climate and the recent protests at Standing Rock over the Dakota Access Pipeline, was the exhibit on treaties and how the Federal Government has a history of breaking them. It saddened me to think of how these treaties would be respected under a Trump administration. Sigh…

We ate at the Mitsitam Cafe which had a great selection of native dishes. Unfortunately, I was feeling a bit under the weather from a stomach bug I had picked up. So I didn’t get to taste much. I’ll need to return.

Afterward, we headed over to the American Museum of Natural History to check out the exhibit on Evolution before the Trump administration has it removed and replaced with “Intelligent Design”. Sigh….

Our last act of civil defiance for the evening was dinner at José Andrés’s restaurant Jaleo. José Andrés is currently being sued by Trump because he pulled out of a new restaurant at Trump’s new hotel in DC. We wanted to support José and had an amazing meal there.

 

Categories: Inauguration, Washington DC, Women's March | 1 Comment

USDA Cafeteria & Momofuku

While elements of our trip to DC have been somber, today we had a very good food day in DC.

We woke late today (jetlag), so missed breakfast. While sickened by the horrors of the Holocaust Museum we actually left hours after entering a little hungry (2 pm and no meal yet today). I looked at my Yelp app for the nearest restaurant and the USDA Cafeteria came up. 4.5 stars! We decided to check it out. We passed through security and hit the buffet. Everything was fresh and delicious! Highly recommend a quirky trip to the USDA cafeteria!

After our afternoon journey around DC (Washington Monument, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, White House) we took a short rest of our feet at our hotel. Then we headed to nearby Momofuku CCDC  and Milk Bar where we had booked reservations a month or so ago. Turns out it wasn’t necessary. So far, the restaurants in DC are largely empty. There doesn’t seem to be anybody here for Trump’s inauguration. Or perhaps it is also because David Chang (owner of Momofuku) is a well known Democrat. It didn’t disappoint and by the time we left the restaurant was packed. We were just early, but it was clear the patrons (all ethnically diverse) weren’t likely in the Trump camp.

 

Categories: Inauguration, Washington DC, Women's March | 1 Comment

Reflections on History Repeating Itself

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Today we went to the Holocaust Museum. The parallels between the forces of history that brought Hitler and the Nazi’s to power, that led to the stigmatization and systematic execution of entire social groups, and the refusal to aid refugees in their time of need, with the circumstances this week in DC was sobering. I had a premonition of this when we visited the Anne Frank House and I blogged about it in the spring of 2016.

Watch this video of Hitler’s rise to power from the museum. Then read these descriptions of Hilter’s rise to power but exchange some of the words with modern characters and circumstances and then tell me it doesn’t scare the shit out of you.

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Substitute some words here for some modern characters…

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Does it sound like a certain sexist, misogynistic, xenophobic, homophobic, Islamophobic, ableist, authoritarian demagogue you know?…

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Consider the Republican defunding of education over the decades. Keep your white working class just educated enough to cast a vote against their own best interests.

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Consider this in light of the Syrian refugee crisis…

The Holocaust museum made me cry. It made me profoundly sad and desperate. It nauseated me. It made me furious. And it inspired and empowered me to be vigilant. I encourage everybody to visit this museum and see the horrors and inhumanity of humanity first hand. The depravity therein is more disgusting than any twisted horror movie you can imagine.

We left the Holocaust museum shell-shocked, silent, and stoic and wandered towards the Washington Monument only to be quickly reminded of why we were there.

Unfortunately, the Washington Monument was still closed. But we walked around and admired it and made our way towards the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Given the recent passing of Tawny’s father (a Vietnam veteran), we felt the need to take a solemn pilgrimage to the monument. There was some catharsis.

We tried to walk by the White House (Obama had just given his last press conference) but the security was too tight and the impending parade route and barriers kept us beyond eyes length. I did see this one sticky note stuck on a nearby sign which seemed simple and fitting enough.

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It was a day a reflection and resolve which we’ll need to draw upon over the next few days as we endure the audacity of Trump supporters coming into town and flaunting their vitriol. Good grief.

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Categories: Inauguration, Washington DC, Women's March | 2 Comments

From First Women President to Women’s March on Washington

We planned to take our daughter to see the inauguration of the first woman president of the United States – Hillary Clinton. The best-laid plans….didn’t work out quite as we expected. But we already had the airfare and the hotels booked. We thought about canceling our trip after Trump was elected, but thought we’d cancel it at the last minute. Then we heard about the Women’s March on Washington. Given our President Elect is a sexist and a misogynist (not to mention racist, xenophobic, Islamophobic, ableist, authoritarian demagogue), we thought it would be important to bring our daughter to this march.

We headed out on Tuesday (a day after Martin Luther King Jr Day) so we could spend a little time in some of the DC museums before the March on Saturday (the day after the inauguration).

While boarding our plane we saw a good omen for our trip – Senator Patty Murray was on our flight. The “mom in tennis shoes” who has risen to be one of the top-ranking senators in the nation and an important line of resistance against a Trump Administration.

Tawny and Clara went to talk with her during the flight. She was somber, as she was heading back to DC to attend the inauguration (by the time we landed as many of 50 Congressional Democrats were refusing to attend. She told them she was attending the inauguration and was to be sitting directly behind Trump so would get a lot of television time. As such, she planned to wear her Planned Parenthood scarf prominently. She signed Clara’s ticket to the Women’s March and said she’d see us there.

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We landed at National Airport and grabbed an Uber into the city. On the way to our hotel, we happened to pass Trump’s new and controversial hotel (in the old Post Office) which on inauguration day is going to put him in violation of his lease.

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We settled into our hotel and started walking around the city and to dinner. It was interesting to see the fencing going up, the golf carts coming in, and all the other preparations for Trump’s big day (which was already looking to be like the most lackluster inauguration in modern history).

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Categories: Inauguration, Washington DC, Women's March | 1 Comment

Sun, BBQ, Gibson, & Hot Fried Chicken

Sun Records is considered by many as the birthplace of rock-n-roll. For us, an opportunity to stand in the studio where  Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and so many others were discovered and recorded some of their most seminal works.

Located just outside of downtown Memphis, Sun Studios is a modest and unassuming building much smaller (and more crowded) than I had imagined.

We lined up and bought our tickets and jockeyed for position as we pursued the t-shirts and souvenirs in the main lobby which also serves as a cafe.

The tour begins upstairs in a crowded and makeshift museum of sorts with interesting memorabilia. We are joined by our tour guide Lahna who gave us an animated history of Sun and talks us through the legends one at a time. Later we learned that Lahna was from Port Townsend, WA and her guitarist/bandmate was from Anacortes, WA (my home town). Together they are Deering and Down. Small world.

Lahna leads us down to the original lobby and recording studio. It is here the gravity of Rock-n-Roll history hits us. X mark spots on the ground where sessions such as the Million Dollar Quartet (a chance meeting of Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Carl Perkins) took place. At one point she told the guy standing next to me he was standing in the exact spot Johnny Cash sang and recorded Ring of Fire. A chill ran through my spine. She then handed me a mic, the very mic Elvis used to record some of his earlier songs. It was transcendent.

A good history lesson in Rock-n-Roll is best followed by some epic BBQ. Many people, hearing we were headed to Memphis, recommended we hit Charles Vergo’s Rendevous. We had also seen it featured on Man vs. Food. We found our way down an alley and then walked stairs into an underground restaurant through wafts of greasy smoke. OMG! These dry rubbed slow cooked charcoal ribs (and the side of bbq sauce for them) were absolutely amazing!

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We had arranged for a 3 pm tour of the Gibson guitar factory just off Beale street a few blocks away. We waddled our way to Gibson. This is where Gibson’s hollow body and semi-hollow body guitars are hand built. It was a fascinating process (which takes about 5 weeks for each guitar). Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take pictures inside the factory during the tour. But I got a few shots from an outside window later and Clara got an opportunity to play a few of the bass guitars.

Post tour, we walked Beale Street looking for some live music. We found a good band at Club Handy and they bent the rules a bit so Clara could sit in the bar and watch the music.

After a set of music, we headed out to find Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken which we had also seen on an episode of Man vs. Food featuring their hot and spicy Memphis-style fried chicken. The city seemed deserted as we walked to Gus’s. However, once we opened the doors it was wall-to-wall people and a 30-minute wait. Well worth the wait for the chicken, the friend okra, and the friend green tomatoes.

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Lorraine Motel – Room 306

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While musical pilgrimage may have been our trip’s key goal, we had another: visiting the Lorraine Motel, home of the National Civil Rights Museum, and the site of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination. It was a powerful and transformative experience.

Given our next president has proven himself to be an ableist, xenophobic, Islamaphobic, racist, misogynistic, sexist, homophobic, authoritarian demagogue; we thought we should see first hand the struggle for civil rights to which Dr. King sacrificed his life before we head to Washington D.C. ourselves to join hundreds of thousands of others in the Women’s March on Washington on January 21st.

This museum is a national international treasure. We spent over three and a half hours here and felt rushed through the exhibits. You could have taken an entire day. It spans the entire legacy of African American history and goes deep into the civil rights movement Dr. King led; the sit-ins, the freedom rides, the protests, the marches. It examines the deep-seated hate and racial divisions in this country, many of which we are starting to see slither forth again from whatever rock they’ve been hiding under in the wake of Trump’s election and a Republican majority in Congress. It was powerful, moving, and inspiring, reinforcing our commitment to civil rights, our Constitution, and the social progress this Nation has made.

One of the last exhibits is a solemn viewing of Dr. King’s room as it was left April 4, 1968. There are no words, only silence, and reflection.

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Dr. King’s room, as he left it.

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Balcony where Dr. King was shot

Music and social consciousness often go hand-in-hand. In fact, there’s a whole section of the museum dedicated to the music of the movement. It lent my ear a new listening perspective on our record collection and showed us how intertwined in our lives our with song and sound. It also revealed a connection to the music of Memphis which we’d experience more in-depth in our visits to Sun Records, Stax, and Graceland.

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Loretta Lynn and B.B. King

What do Loretta Lynn and B.B. King have in common? Probably more than we think. At the very least they are connected by I-40, the 3-hour drone of pavement between Nashville and Memphis known as the Music Highway.

We left Nashville and headed towards Memphis for the b-side of our musical pilgrimage. I-40 is a rather flat and boring drive of no particular interest. Along the way (what seems nearly every mile) you’d come across billboards for Loretta Lynn’s Kitchen. I recognized the signs and remembered having been to Loretta Lynn’s Kitchen one spring break in college when I drove from Annandale-on-Hudson, NY to New Orleans and back in my late 80’s Subaru GL station wagon. I remember the all-you-can-eat buffet and my first taste of grits. “We should stop there for lunch,” I said. “It has a large buffalo statue with glowing red eyes out front which would be good for some kitsch.” We exited I-40 at exit 143 and drove up the hill towards the buffalo. A friend had warned us that things move a bit slower in the South and she was right. Our quick detour turned into over an hour as we waited for our food and explored the slightly-offensive-to-our-sensibilities gift shop. It didn’t meet the muster of my memories as my grits were served so cold they couldn’t melt the margarine placed upon them. But all-in-all it was a useful distraction from the monotony of I-40. We even ended up buying her new album, Full Circle, while we were there (an album I highly recommend).

As we drove on we flipped from radio station to radio station trying to find something other than country music to listen to. How do these radio stations differentiate themselves and win loyal listeners when they all play the same thing? We hoped we’d be able to find some blues, soul, or oldies rock-n-roll stations as we approached Memphis but had mixed results. However, it was a good thing we had the radio on because about 30 minutes outside of Memphis we heard the emergency alert system kick in. “I hope that is just a test,” said Tawny. No such luck. We just heard a severe storm warning alert. Here’s the report.

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We were located just outside of Germantown and headed towards downtown Memphis – right into the storm! Driving a rental car from Hertz and having my last run in with them in Portugal I didn’t want to receive car damage from quarter sized hail. We saw a sign for a visitor’s center and pulled off to ask their advice. We walked in and asked them if they knew about the coming storm. They didn’t, but one of the employees looked it up on the computer. Looking at the radar screen he commented, “We are in the box!” Tawny was alarmed, “The box? What’s the box? That doesn’t sound good, does it? I don’t want to be in the box. How do we get out of the box?”

They advised that we make our way to the nearby Exxon station and park under the covered fueling area until the storm passed. We could see the sky growing darker and so we left and drove immediately to the service station. No sooner had we left the visitor center than it began to rain. Seconds after pulling under the covered area the hail began to fall.

The storm was over as quick as it had begun, so we headed back out onto I-40 and saw accidents all up and down the interstate. Sirens and aid vehicles were just starting to arrive and help motorists who had spun out or crashed in the flash storm. We felt lucky to have the advanced warning.

As we pulled into Memphis we were greeted by a bizarre giant pyramid adjacent to the Mississippi. A Bass Pro Shop in the shape of a pyramid? Huh? We made a mental note to return here later.

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We wanted to check into our hotel. It was a busy weekend in Memphis because of the Liberty Bowl happening on Friday. As such, hotels were hard to find. Yet, somehow we were not only able to get a great room downtown but when we checked in they give us the penthouse suite! It was like the entire top floor and rooftop deck of the Marriot Memphis Residence Inn with a view of downtown and the Mighty Mississippi.

We quickly unpacked our stuff and then headed to The Peabody to see the famous Peabody Ducks. We arrived a little late to get a prime spot but were able to secure an unobstructed view from the lobby balcony to watch the evening show.

Afterward, we headed towards Beale Street to get a sense of Memphis. While it was touristy and filling up with college football fans coming into town for the bowl game it was still Memphis and it had a completely different vibe than Nashville. The gentrification and pretense of Nashville gave way to the bar-b-que and juke joints of Beale Street. We felt right at home. We walked up and down Beale Street to get our barrings and then went into B.B. Kings Blues Club prominently placed on the corner of 2nd and Beale. While primarily catering to tourists they served very credible bbq and featured a great blues artist (Memphis Jones) who gave historical lectures about Memphis blues history between songs. It was a great introduction to what would prove to be another great music city for us.

 

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