Daily Archives: January 16, 2017

Sun, BBQ, Gibson, & Hot Fried Chicken

Sun Records is considered by many as the birthplace of rock-n-roll. For us, an opportunity to stand in the studio where  Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Roy Orbison, Jerry Lee Lewis, and so many others were discovered and recorded some of their most seminal works.

Located just outside of downtown Memphis, Sun Studios is a modest and unassuming building much smaller (and more crowded) than I had imagined.

We lined up and bought our tickets and jockeyed for position as we pursued the t-shirts and souvenirs in the main lobby which also serves as a cafe.

The tour begins upstairs in a crowded and makeshift museum of sorts with interesting memorabilia. We are joined by our tour guide Lahna who gave us an animated history of Sun and talks us through the legends one at a time. Later we learned that Lahna was from Port Townsend, WA and her guitarist/bandmate was from Anacortes, WA (my home town). Together they are Deering and Down. Small world.

Lahna leads us down to the original lobby and recording studio. It is here the gravity of Rock-n-Roll history hits us. X mark spots on the ground where sessions such as the Million Dollar Quartet (a chance meeting of Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, and Carl Perkins) took place. At one point she told the guy standing next to me he was standing in the exact spot Johnny Cash sang and recorded Ring of Fire. A chill ran through my spine. She then handed me a mic, the very mic Elvis used to record some of his earlier songs. It was transcendent.

A good history lesson in Rock-n-Roll is best followed by some epic BBQ. Many people, hearing we were headed to Memphis, recommended we hit Charles Vergo’s Rendevous. We had also seen it featured on Man vs. Food. We found our way down an alley and then walked stairs into an underground restaurant through wafts of greasy smoke. OMG! These dry rubbed slow cooked charcoal ribs (and the side of bbq sauce for them) were absolutely amazing!

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We had arranged for a 3 pm tour of the Gibson guitar factory just off Beale street a few blocks away. We waddled our way to Gibson. This is where Gibson’s hollow body and semi-hollow body guitars are hand built. It was a fascinating process (which takes about 5 weeks for each guitar). Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take pictures inside the factory during the tour. But I got a few shots from an outside window later and Clara got an opportunity to play a few of the bass guitars.

Post tour, we walked Beale Street looking for some live music. We found a good band at Club Handy and they bent the rules a bit so Clara could sit in the bar and watch the music.

After a set of music, we headed out to find Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken which we had also seen on an episode of Man vs. Food featuring their hot and spicy Memphis-style fried chicken. The city seemed deserted as we walked to Gus’s. However, once we opened the doors it was wall-to-wall people and a 30-minute wait. Well worth the wait for the chicken, the friend okra, and the friend green tomatoes.

Categories: Memphis, Tennessee | Leave a comment

Lorraine Motel – Room 306

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While musical pilgrimage may have been our trip’s key goal, we had another: visiting the Lorraine Motel, home of the National Civil Rights Museum, and the site of Martin Luther King Jr.’s assassination. It was a powerful and transformative experience.

Given our next president has proven himself to be an ableist, xenophobic, Islamaphobic, racist, misogynistic, sexist, homophobic, authoritarian demagogue; we thought we should see first hand the struggle for civil rights to which Dr. King sacrificed his life before we head to Washington D.C. ourselves to join hundreds of thousands of others in the Women’s March on Washington on January 21st.

This museum is a national international treasure. We spent over three and a half hours here and felt rushed through the exhibits. You could have taken an entire day. It spans the entire legacy of African American history and goes deep into the civil rights movement Dr. King led; the sit-ins, the freedom rides, the protests, the marches. It examines the deep-seated hate and racial divisions in this country, many of which we are starting to see slither forth again from whatever rock they’ve been hiding under in the wake of Trump’s election and a Republican majority in Congress. It was powerful, moving, and inspiring, reinforcing our commitment to civil rights, our Constitution, and the social progress this Nation has made.

One of the last exhibits is a solemn viewing of Dr. King’s room as it was left April 4, 1968. There are no words, only silence, and reflection.

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Dr. King’s room, as he left it.

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Balcony where Dr. King was shot

Music and social consciousness often go hand-in-hand. In fact, there’s a whole section of the museum dedicated to the music of the movement. It lent my ear a new listening perspective on our record collection and showed us how intertwined in our lives our with song and sound. It also revealed a connection to the music of Memphis which we’d experience more in-depth in our visits to Sun Records, Stax, and Graceland.

Categories: Memphis | 1 Comment

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