Sabbatikos

We kicked off our morning with delicious breakfast burritos and copious amounts of coffee at the charming La Posada Hotel Santa Fe. Energized, we strolled through the vibrant Santa Fe Plaza, navigating a colorful maze of vendors selling unique wares, souvenirs, and handmade indigenous art. Having visited Santa Fe just a year ago, I felt a sense of familiarity, my mind buzzing with memories (and coffee) of must-see spots and hidden gems waiting to be rediscovered with my daughter.

We were on our way to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, but first we happened by the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi and popped in for a quick look. Built in 1886, the Cathedral of Saint Francis of Assisi was officially elevated to a basilica by Pope Benedict XVI on October 4, 2005.

Reservations are suggested at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum to manage visitor flow of through its cozy galleries, but we arrived without any. Fortunately, the museum was quiet, and our wait was brief. Contrary to what many might expect, O’Keeffe’s paintings are often smaller in size than one would expect, yet their impact and allure are undiminished. Each piece offered a captivating glimpse into the mind and memory of this extraordinary artist, making our visit truly memorable.

Inspired and eager for more art, we made our way to the state capitol building, home to the remarkable New Mexico Capitol Art Collection, showcasing talented artists from across the state. This unique building, affectionately known as The Roundhouse, is the only round state capitol in the United States. Best of all, it’s free and open to the public, inviting everyone to explore its artistic treasures and see their tax dollars at work.

From the capitol building, we strolled over to the nearby San Miguel Mission, the oldest church in the United States, and the adjacent De Vargas Street House, reputedly the oldest house in the country—though some debate that claim. Despite the controversy, the house is free to visit (entering and exiting through the charming gift shop), and both sites are definitely worth a stop. The milagros encrusted on the legendary, yet also controversial, San Jose Bell at the mission are particularly captivating and shouldn’t be missed. For a small donation, you can even strike the bell.

We continued our walk back into town, stumbling upon the Loretto Chapel, a place I had forgotten about from my visit the previous year. Despite its reputation for housing a miraculous staircase, it hadn’t left a lasting impression on me. The spiral staircase is undeniably beautiful, but the $10 per person entry fee for this commercialized chapel seems steep (exit through the gift shop). Save your money and enjoy my free photo instead—that’s the real miracle here.

We’d had a long day but still had some time to spare before my surprise reservation for Clara. We grabbed a coffee and made our way to Andrea Fischer Pottery, a gallery I had passed countless times the previous year while searching for The Matador, an underground punk rock dive bar Clara and I had visited the night before. Last year, one piece of pottery had repeatedly caught the eye of Tawny and I, lingering in our minds each time we passed by the gallery. The next morning, we couldn’t resist and returned to buy it—a stunning creation by Adrian Corona from Mata Ortiz.

Mata Ortiz pottery, originating from a small village in Chihuahua, Mexico, is renowned for its intricate designs and meticulous craftsmanship, echoing the ancient traditions of the region. Each piece is a unique work of art, reflecting a blend of historical influence and contemporary innovation. Adrian Corona’s work, in particular, exemplifies this, with his striking bat, thistle, and Venus flytrap motifs and his exquisite detail. This beautiful pottery now adorns our home and contains within the memories of our Santa Fe adventures.

We browsed the gallery to show Clara where we had bought this piece and appreciate some of the intricate and intriguing pottery at this fine gallery.

Our next stop was a surprise reservation: an afternoon champagne and wine tasting at the Gruet tasting room. Nestled in the elegant St. Francis Hotel. We savored some bubbly and fine wines, paired with delectable bites that tided us over until dinner. This spot offered the perfect blend of sophistication and charm; a perfect pause in our day, a toast to our Santa Fe adventures yet to come.

We had a few hours before our dinner reservation, so we decided to walk off our champagne and head towards the Railyard, and pop into another gallery, Art Vault, a contemporary gallery/museum. We stumbled upon this avant-garde venue the prior year and it was a highlight of our trip. The art is…innovative, strange, provocative…

With more time to spare before our dinner reservation, we wandered into a boutique distillery called As Above So Below. The place exuded a cool, enchanting apothecary vibe, perfect for a late afternoon escape. We indulged in their craft bespoke cocktails, and I was particularly blown away by The Coven—hands down one of the best cocktails I’ve ever tasted. Crafted with precision and a touch of magick, it was a soul-imbued experience. As Above So Below distillery with its wicca-hip atmosphere and exceptional elixirs, was an enchanting highlight of our day.

Staying a spell longer at As Above So Below than we intended, we had just enough time to walk the few blocks to Paloma where we enjoyed a very good New Mexican diner and tasted some fine mezcal.

After dinner, uncertain of what to do and not yet ready to return to the hotel, we decided on a movie. Earlier, we had passed the Violet Crown movie theater near As Above So Below and noticed the vampire film Abigail was playing. Arriving 15 minutes late, we slipped into the darkened theater, as tension on screen was mounting. What followed was an absurdly predictable blood-soaked horror romp that delivered cheap thrills and a few outburst of audible laughter.

We had a long walk back to the hotel and needed to rest our feet, so we stopped at a jazz bar called Tonic on the way. The cocktails here were contemporary, descriptive, and named after recent films, such as the Dune inspired, Sands of Arrakis: “In the dining hall of the Arrakeen great house, Atreides crystal is arranged for a great feast. A minor chord from a baliset floats from the alcove. The rich odor of Melange fills the air. A richness mixed with Caladan wine. The sleeper has awakened.”

While the sleeper may have awakened, that drink put us right to sleep. Although it did have us chanting “Lisan al Gaib, Lisan al Gaib!” all the way back to the hotel.

Welsh whiskey, blood orange coulis, reduced apple, fino, bay leaf bitters, spice melange

We had an early start tomorrow as we were heading out early for a hike at Bandelier National Monument.