Sabbatikos

During our trip to Iceland in April 2019, we managed to squeeze in a day bus tour of the famous Golden Circle, making stops at Þingvellir National Park, the geothermal area of Geysir, and the breathtaking Gullfoss waterfall. This tour offered a fantastic introduction to Iceland’s stunning landscapes. However, if we were to do it again, we would rent a car to travel at our own pace and avoid the crowds of a guided bus tour. Plus, we’d be sure to pack warmer clothes—the bone-chilling Icelandic winds are extreme!

While the Golden Circle’s beauty is undeniable, especially Gullfoss, the sights in South Iceland are even more spectacular. Our journey from Reykjavík to Vík was filled with one natural wonder after another, each more impressive than the last. We took our time, stopping at extraordinary places that made us feel as if we had stepped into Valhalla. The leisurely drive allowed us to fully appreciate the jaw-dropping beauty of South Iceland, making it an unforgettable experience.

We drove straight from Rekjavík to Seljalandsfoss. Seljalandsfoss is one of Iceland’s most captivating waterfalls, cascading gracefully from a height of 200 feet. What makes this waterfall truly unique is the path that allows visitors to walk behind the shimmering curtain of water. As you venture behind Seljalandsfoss, the roar of the falling water and the mist in the air create an exhilarating, immersive experience. Top of the line rain gear is a must! Luckily, upon our return to Iceland we packed and prepared appropriately for the cold, wind, and rains.

Just a short 10-15 minute walk away is the hidden gem Gljúfrabúi, a smaller but equally enchanting waterfall. To reach it, you navigate a narrow entrance between cliffs, carefully stepping on rocks in the river to keep your feet dry while hugging the cave wall. The rocks here are a two way path, so you’ll have to take turns letting people in and out of the grotto. As you approach the waterfall, the deluge of water and mist intensifies, and it feels as though you’re taking a cold shower, enveloped by the cold raw beauty of this land. Make sure you have waterproof shoes.

Not far from Seljalandsfoss, a short drive brought us to the majestic Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s largest and most famous waterfalls. Plunging from a height of 200 feet and spanning 82 feet across, Skógafoss is a breathtaking spectacle of raw power and beauty. The thundering cascade creates a mist that often produces vibrant rainbows on sunny days (and today was no exception), adding magic to an already miraculous scene. We hiked up close to the waterfall’s base, feeling the cool spray on our faces as we touched the rainbows. Then we took the steep staircase to the top for a panoramic view of the pastoral surroundings and the river below. Skógafoss is not just a sight to behold but an experience that immerses you in the awe-inspiring natural wonders of Iceland. How could it get any more amazing…but it just does.

Our next stop was Dyrhólaey Promontory, a dramatic headland on Iceland’s southern coast, which offers some of the most breathtaking views in the country. Rising 300 feet above the near freezing Atlantic Ocean, this natural marvel is renowned for its striking rock arch, carved by centuries of relentless pounding waves. The promontory provides an excellent vantage point to witness the contrast between the black sand beaches of Reynisfjara (our next stop) to the west and the vast lava fields to the east looking back towards Skógafoss. It was extremely windy here, and therefore cold. As we stood on the edge, with the wind whipping us to the crack of crashing waves below, we felt a profound connection to the rugged and untamed beauty of Iceland’s coastline.

Driving down from the windswept heights of Dyrhólaey Promontory, we continued our journey to the mesmerizing Reynisfjara, a black sand beach that feels otherworldly. Could Iceland get any more beautiful? Yes, it could, and Reynisfjara proved it. The beach is famous for its jet-black sands. However, the real beauty are towering basalt columns, resembling a natural cathedral, that line the beach, their geometric patterns creating a surreal and awe-inspiring sight. Apparently it was the site of scenes from Game of Thrones, and you know how we love Game of Thrones.

Just offshore, the Reynisdrangar sea stacks—legend has it they are trolls turned to stone by the rising sun. They seemed to be standing guard against the tumultuous sea protecting Hálsanefshellir, the beach’s massive and dramatic cave. Hálsanefshellir was like a monster herself, with her mouth framed by basalt columns that look like teeth. Her beauty invites curious exploration while her acoustics echo the sounds of the ocean like an ominous roar from within. Reynisfjara’s unique and captivating features were the pinnacle of an already spectacular and mind-blowing day.

We drove on to Vík where we spent the night, our plan was to return to Rekjavík tomorrow…but we had heard tale of the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach and spent our evening plotting how we might be able to fit it into our schedule.