Sabbatikos

We spent our evening in Vík plotting how we might fit Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach into our schedule. Despite that these must-see destinations were a two-hour and twenty-minute drive in the opposite direction of Reykjavík, meaning we’d have to double back through Vík and add nearly five hours to our already lengthy drive, we were convinced it would be worth it. And it absolutely was!

We continued our journey east on Highway 1, the legendary Ring Road, and our first stop was Fagrifoss—a stunning, unmarked 260-foot waterfall tucked away like a hidden gem in someone’s backyard. There, a few Icelandic horses grazed peacefully, adding to the enchantment of the scene. As we admired the view, the homeowner drove down their long driveway towards us. We expected a polite request to leave, but instead, she handed us some bread to feed her horses. The moment was so magical, these Icelandic horses may as well have been unicorns, a fairytale moment. This unexpected roadside stop epitomized Iceland’s charm, with each bend in the road revealing more breathtaking beauty than the last.

The next wonder was in the small town of Hof where we found Hofskirkja, a turf church. It is one of Iceland’s last traditional turf churches, blending seamlessly as if rising from the mossy landscape or being consumed by it. Built in 1884, its walls are made of thick stone and covered with a soft, green turf. The church’s picturesque setting is complemented by an old graveyard, where white crosses are encircled by moss-covered mounds. Hofskirkja offer a peaceful, reflective atmosphere, and also a public bathroom where a “donation” to the church is suggested. Hmm…

The drive from Vík to Jökulsárlón is about 120 miles takes you through some of the most desolate and striking landscapes in the country. Once past these scenic stops at Fagrifoss and Hof, the landscape becomes barren, with vast stretches of moss covered lava fields. The horizon often punctuated by distant, solitary mountains and glaciers.

The drive takes you past the Mýrdalsjökull glacier and the Eldhraun lava fields, remnants of many volcanic eruptions. The stark, rocky terrain and sparse vegetation create a sense of remoteness and otherworldliness. We drove for long stretches without ever seeing another car.

Further along, the landscape opens up to expansive plains, with rivers and glacial streams crisscrossing the countryside. The sky feels immense, often filled with an ever changing landscape and weather. The drive is beautiful and enthrallingly meditative.

As you approach Jökulsárlón, the scenery changes again, with the Vatnajökull glacier looming in the distance. It has the distinction of being the largest glacier in Europe. The final stretch reveals the surreal beauty of Jökulsárlón itself, with its icy-blue icebergs floating in the glacial lagoon, creating a striking contrast against the black sand beaches and the ice-capped mountains, and the ever changing weather. It was so cold there!

Jökulsárlón is a alluring glacier lagoon where enormous icebergs drift serenely frigid water. Nearby, Diamond Beach sparkles with glistening ice fragments, resembling scattered diamonds toss from the sea onto its striking black sands.

Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach were both incredibly windy and bitterly cold, making it difficult to stay outside and fully take in their beauty for long. Despite this, those few minutes spent marveling at the icebergs and sparkling ice-diamonds on black sands were absolutely worth the multi-hour drive. We quickly retreated to our car and headed back to Vík, stopping for a late lunch at The Soup Company. There, we warmed up with their highly recommended Red Hot Lava Soup.

Recharged and rested, we embarked on the final two-and-a-half-hour leg back to Reykjavík. As we pulled into town, snowflakes began to fall, adding to our excitement for the next night—the kickoff of the three-day Iceland Airwaves Music Festival! We had waited for this moment for over two years and we were so excited finally be hearing live music in Iceland!