Sabbatikos

There’s a certain magic in spaces that feel like they exist outside of time, and The Huntington in San Marino is one of them. Sprawling across 120 acres, the blend of botanical gardens, art collections, and rare books is less a single destination and more a collection of the world, each one distinct, immersive, intoxicatingly beautiful, and far more than one can consume in a day.

Several friends had told us to visit the Huntington and couldn’t believe we hadn’t been there yet. Neither could we. So, one cool December day we took the opportunity to drive out to San Marino and enjoy the gardens, the art, the history, and the food for ourselves.

There is no one way to do the Huntington, the labyrinth of paths, multitude of gardens, museums, libraries, offer endless routes and possibilities. On the advice of a friend we wandered first into the Desert Garden, a meticulously maintained alien landscape where towering cacti and succulents in the low angle of a winter solstice sun create dramatic otherworldly shadows and glow against the dry arid ground.

We continued on a path past the Australian Garden and on to the Japanese Garden, where we entered through a shadowed path of a swaying bamboo forest as if we were stepping back into time. We found a featured bonsai collection and admired centuries-old trees sculpted by miniaturist masters of time and patience. We strolled down the path through another bamboo grove and eventually into the main garden featuring a 300-year-old Japanese Shoya House donated to the Huntington. Just beyond the house was the center of the garden with a moon bridge spanning over a pond of lazy koi below.

Following a simple path along a babbling brook that fed the koi pond, we found ourselves in the tranquility of the Chinese Garden. Here we found a quiet and contemplative balance of water, stones, and structures carefully placed to create what felt like a painted space.

We decided to linger here at the Jade Court Café and take lunch framed in this painting by bamboo, lotus-filled jade colored koi ponds, and under the watchful eye of the perched and ever-patient great white egrets. The food here was surprisingly fresh and good, with a Cantonese leaning menu packing just a little bàoquánlǐ of spice.

After our delicious lunch we found our way into the Huntington Conservatory. Stepping into this space was like stepping back into a prehistoric time where the air hangs thick with humidity, leaves are impossibly large, and orchids drip from the canopy like petal-shaped jewels. The space trickles with the water slipping over moss-covered stones and drips of humidity hitting the canopy of leaves, towering ferns, and spiraling vines. In the carnivorous plant room, Venus flytraps and pitcher plants slowly devour their prey. And placards educate you about the plants and their timelines. Did you know the ginkgo tree is older than the dinosaurs by 20 million years? I do now.

There are several art museums at the Huntington, and we chose to go inside the mansion to see the British and European art collection. We wanted to see Thomas Gainsborough’s famous “Blue Boy“, juxtaposed across the room with Kehinde Wiley’s modern counterpoint “A Portrait of a Young Gentleman”. It was such a poignant contrast to see Wiley’s painting amongst European 18th-century paintings and French decorative arts, and a featured exhibit of intricate paintings by Raquib Shaw.

We were overwhelmed taking in the gardens, the conservatory, and the art. Our cup runneth over with visual stimulation and our feet sore from a several mile walk through the gardens. As such, we never made it to the Library and see the first editions of Shakespeare, a Gutenberg Bible, and ancient illuminated manuscripts. We’ll have to returned to what will undoubtedly be a humbling experience before these pages, and contemplate the hands that have turned their pages of influence over centuries. We also didn’t make it to the Rose Garden Tea Room (we were told advanced reservations were required) overlooking the Rose Garden. That will be a future must to-do!

Having just scratched the surface after a full day at the Huntington we realized it is more than a garden. It is a space that transcends time via the manicured spaces of history flourishing through nature. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, or seeking a garden retreat, the Huntington seemed to offer something for each of us. It was a gentle reminder to us to slow down, look closely, and savor the beauty of the world around us…and if you happen to be in the Rose Garden, to literally take the time to smell the roses. We left reluctantly, already planning our return.