Sabbatikos

After a leisurely morning of coffee and conversation at Nicky and Hass’s home, we set off to explore Valletta while we eagerly awaited Clara and Ian’s arrival from LA. They would be joining us for most of the remainder of our trip.

We were excited to explore Malta’s capital, an intricate tapestry of ancient architecture influenced by Roman, Arab, Norman, French, and British cultures, woven together through the narrow streets, enclosed balconies (known as Gallarija) and shaped by Malta’s centuries of conquest.

We began at the Tritons’ Fountain near the City Gate, weaving our way down a very crowded Republic Street. Nicky, our ever-knowledgeable guide (who may have missed her calling as a gifted tour guide), pointed out major landmarks along the way, while Hass regaled us with stories of the Knights of St. John, who helped shape much of Malta’s history.

By midday, our explorations had worked up an appetite, so Nicky and Hass led us to The Taproom Valletta, one of their favorite spots. Tucked away in the heart of the city, the restaurant offered a great vantage point for excellent international people-watching. We settled in for some Maltese comfort food accompanied by beer, wine, and a few Aperol Spritzes. The Taproom’s laid-back atmosphere and vantage point made it the perfect pit stop before diving back into Valletta’s crowded streets.

With our hunger sated and our thirst quenched, we continued our exploration of Valletta, eager to uncover the city’s hidden corners. Our next stop was the Mysterium Fidei Monastery. Stepping inside, we found a dimly lit interior that felt somber and austere, save for the unexpectedly bright green and alive central courtyard. The atmosphere carried a weighty sense of melancholy history, as we learned that many of the nuns who once lived within these walls were forced into the convent under duress or dubious circumstances. It was a sobering reminder of the monastery’s complicated past, tucked away behind its unremarkable and demure façade.

Just around the corner, we visited the Black Friars Church. In stark contrast to the silenced reverence of the nunnery, this church was filled with opulent treasures, beautiful painted ceiling frescoes, and slightly disturbing artwork. The church’s intricate woodwork and gilded altars reflected a display of patriarchal wealth and power, albeit delivered with undeniable beauty.

In the late afternoon sun, bathed in the warm glow of Maltese limestone, the kids finally arrived! Clara and Ian had embarked on a marathon journey, flying from Burbank to San Francisco, then catching a flight to London Heathrow just in time to make their connection to Malta. Nearly 24 hours of constant travel later, they rolled up in a Bolt (a new experience for us) and greeted us with tired but excited smiles. We welcomed them to Nicky and Hass’s amazing home, giving them a quick tour before deciding the best way to keep them awake was to hit the streets for a walk of the town of Naxxar and enjoy a glass of wine at a local cafe.

As the sun dipped into the Mediterranean, casting long shadows over Malta’s ancient streets and alleys, we couldn’t wait to share Valletta with Clara and Ian and explore Mdina and Rabat, visiting the iconic Game of Thrones locations. We returned to Nicky and Hass’s home, where the kids met the cats (Ekky, Seth, and Satan) and we settled in to enjoy a fantastic charcuterie spread. The evening unfolded with laughter and stories as we got to know each other over a rousing game of Cards Against Humanity. Eventually, a combination of jet lag and a few drinks sent us all to bed, content and ready for more Maltese adventures tomorrow.