Sabbatikos

This morning, we were picked up in Ortigia by our driver for a scenic 1.5-hour drive to Taormina, a hilltop town perched high above the azure blue Ionian Sea. Taormina was famously featured as the breathtaking backdrop of Sicilian intrigue for Season 2 of The White Lotus! We are big fans of the show, and while we didn’t specifically choose Taormina because of The White Lotus (just as we didn’t choose Ireland, Iceland, Malta, or Croatia solely because of Game of Thrones), it definitely added a fun dimension to our vacation.

As we approached Taormina, the road twisted and turned, each switchback more dramatic, dizzying, and awe-inspiring than the last. Below us lay Isola Bella, a rocky island connected to the beach by a narrow ribbon of sand, accessible only by wading through a bit of water and heavily featured as an ominous visual element of White Lotus Season 2. Our twisting and turning ascent up the road to Taormina seemed endless, until suddenly, voilà! We arrived at Hotel Villa Carlotta. Our charming boutique hotel, carved into the hillside, offered sweeping views of mega yachts and cruise ships anchored in the vivid blue waters far below. Although it wasn’t the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace of White Lotus fame, it was just down the street and certainly the next best thing. You half expected to see Jennifer Coolidge as Tanya McQuoid-Hunt imagining herself to be Monica Viti whipping by on a turquoise Vespa.

After settling into our room with its postcard-perfect view, we took a short break by the pool while waiting for the hotel restaurant to open for lunch. Once it was time, we made our way to the hotel’s top-floor restaurant. The panoramic view was utterly mesmerizing, like an infinity pool for the eyes, where our cocktails on the table seemed to blend into the endless blue of the sea and sky. The food and wine were excellent, setting the perfect tone for our time in Taormina.

We set out in the afternoon with our private guide, eager to explore Taormina’s historic charm. The cliff-side town itself is a captivating maze of elegant squares, winding alleyways, and steep staircases lined with cozy cafés, bars, and osterias that spilled into the stairs and streets. As we wandered, it was easy to see why Taormina’s irresistible blend of old-world beauty and cinematic scenery made it the perfect setting for The White Lotus.

Our first stop was the Villa Comunale, a lushly green, terraced garden just a few steps from our hotel. Originally the private garden of Lady Florence Trevelyan, an English noblewoman who settled in Taormina in the late 19th century, it has since been transformed into a public park. Lady Trevelyan, known for her love of nature and birds, designed the garden as a sanctuary for people and bird alike. What we thought were the remains of quirky homes she had built there were actually ornamental birdhouses, originally intended to attract and shelter various bird species! It was a serene and enchanting surprise to find this unique park next to our hotel.

From there, we meandered through Taormina’s historic center, our guide pointing out restaurants tucked into the folds of narrow streets and charming shops brimming with local food and crafts. We climbed steps towards the crown jewel of the town: Teatro Antico di Taormina. Perched on a hill high above Taormina, the ancient Greco-Roman amphitheater commanded views that stretched from the rugged coast to the distant silhouette of Mt. Etna. It was similar (but smaller) than the Greek Theater in Syracuse.

Next, we wandered down the bustling Corso Umberto, where high-end boutiques like Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, and Louis Vuitton stood alongside ancient relics. We passed the Roman Odeon, the modest remains of a Roman theater where elites once gathered for intimate performances, and the Corvaja Palace, with its distinctive Arabic architectural influence dating back to the 10th century.

Our last stop was the modest Cathedral of Taormina, where a newly commissioned wooden carving of the Last Supper, created for Jubilee 2025, featured a clear depiction of Mary Magdalene to the right of Jesus, a progressive inclusion that sparked thoughtful reflection. And yet, just steps away, the Dolce & Gabbana Mocambo Bar made a striking contrast between luxury fashion and this thousand-year-old monument. In any other place, this contrast might have seemed out of place, but in Taormina, it somehow felt fitting.

With the tour concluded, we bid farewell to our guide and wandered the streets in search of a place to unwind. We stumbled upon a cozy little wine bar called Siculishh. The ambiance was just right, casual, unpretentious, and a perfect spot to rest our feet with helpful service in picking local wines from Mt. Etna.

Hunger soon called again, and we opted for I Giardini Di Babilonia Ristorante Bistrot, a charming spot with a courtyard framed by a blooming canopy of trees. Unfortunately, the atmosphere proved more satisfying than the meal itself after an absurdly sized €20 entrée got delivered with slightly indifferent service. Still, it couldn’t dampen our spirits and we laughed it off. But still hungry we wandered back down the Corso Umberto in search of cannoli and found some at Roberto Chemi, a famous stop for the crunchy pastry with sweet creamy ricotta and there was marzipan as well!

Full and a bit sleepy, we strolled back to our hotel on wandering backstreets to a full moon. Our heads were filled with images of ancient theaters, sidewalk cafés, and the lingering taste of a good cannoli (and mediocre marzipan). Tomorrow, Mt. Etna awaits!