Sabbatikos

We bid farewell to the dramatic cliffside vistas of Taormina and made our way down the coast to Catania, where our Sicilian chapter came to a close. From Catania, we boarded a quick flight north to the heart of Italy: Rome, Caput Mundi, a city we love and had not visited in more than a decade.

The drive from the airport into the city was a crash course in Roman grandeur. We passed the sprawling ruins of the Baths of Caracalla, the timeworn arches (that inspired the Colosseum) of the Theatre of Marcellus, and glimpses of other iconic landmarks appearing left and right as we made our way across the city. Rome, in all her eternal glory, didn’t hesitate to impress us. She looked especially good, having been cleaned and polished in preparation for the Jubilee.

Rome was teeming with life and massive crowds. When we planned and booked this trip nearly a year ago, we had no idea it would coincide with a Jubilee year in Rome. We certainly did not anticipate that Pope Francis would pass away just before our visit, or that Pope Leo, the first American Pope, would be selected by the papal conclave only days before our arrival. These unexpected events filled the city with immense crowds and a palpable sense of energy. Rome felt more alive than ever, with momentum and celebration pulsing through the streets.

Our hotel, the Westin Excelsior, sits on and near the top of Via Vittorio Veneto, just steps from the American Embassy, whose fortified walls and security details make it hard to miss taking up an entire city block! We checked in and had just a few minutes of time before our evening plans.

We were picked up by our guide for a Trastevere foodie walk, ready to dive mouth-first into a neighborhood of Rome we hadn’t previously visited. We were dropped off just across the Tiber river and started walked across its cobbled streets.

Trastevere feels like the Rome of Italian Cinema. As we strolled past traditional shops, family-run trattorias, bakeries, and artisan storefronts, our guide offered insight into the area’s bohemian past and we occasionally popped in to taste a few items.

Eventually, we arrived at Roscioli Rimessa, the final stop and culinary crescendo of our walk through the streets of Trastevere. Roscioli delivered an exceptional eight-course tasting menu, with each plate paired with a thoughtfully selected Italian wine and accompanied by a detailed explanation of both the dish and the pairing. The dishes were inventive and every bit as delicious as the wines.

Sated and enchanted by the evening, the flavors, and the magic of Rome, we caught a ride back to our hotel. So much food! We were all happy to be back in Rome again (it was Ian’s first time). The city felt both familiar and new, and inviting. Tomorrow, more adventures await, but tonight, we fell asleep with full bellies, a soothing Italian wine buzz, and the lingering tastes of our new favorite Roman neighborhood, Trastevere.