Stormy Night Before Steni Vala

Wednesday night was wild with wind, thunder and lightning assaulting us us most the night. The Gods clearly still displeased with our further encroachment upon their sacred isles.

At 2am we had to adjust our mooring to ensure we didn’t hit a fishing boat near us. It proved a very restless night but a lazy morning as it was cold and poured rain most of the morning. We waited for a break in the weather before making our own break for Steni Vala further up the eastern side of Alonissos. As we made our break we saw about 8 or 9 other boats coming out of Patiriri that had been holed up there due to weather as well. We assumed they were all heading to the same place, and were correct, because there are few other anchorages in this area. We had an advantage in the race to Steni Vala because Votsi was slightly further North than the main port of Patiriri. As Steni Vala is a tiny port it was important that our 3 boats got their first.

We were far enough ahead to make a quick detour into Kokkinokastro, a beautiful bay were evidence of humans with Stone Age tools dating from 10-30K years B.C. There are some archeological digs you can explore there, but we didn’t have time so we headed out of the bay for Steni Vala.



Steni Vala is a cute little family owned bay with a few small stores and tavernas. We found a good spot right in front of the Ikarus Cafe where we were told to find Kostas, “Who will have answers everything you need to know about the Sporades”. He was easy to find.











After our onboard happy hour we asked Kostas which is the best restaurant to eat at. “This is difficult for me to answer. You see, this is my cousin” (pointing to his left) “And this is my cousin” Pointing to his right. “Any the next one my cousin”. So we rephrased the question. “Where would you eat?”. And he said, “At home with my wife”. So we choose a taverna based on their hand painted menus.

On the way to dinner Judy stopped off at her boat, “Delos” which due to so many problems they’d renamed “Doris”. Stern ties are common in the Aegean but in this particular moorage it was very shallow by the quay so they had to pull anchor out further which wouldn’t allow their gang plank to reach. So Barry had Barry-rigged a bunch of lines to use their dingy as a step to/from the boat. However, one of the ropes to the quay was tied to short so when Judy pushed herself off the quay to glide to over to Doris the dingy stopped suddenly short causing Judy to fall into the harbor.


Just outside the restaurant we saw a local with a jig fishing off the pier. He took one quick throw and pull and had his dinner for the night.


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