Sabbatikos

Our time in Malta had come to an end, and we set our sights on Sicily. Our voyage began with a 5 a.m. Bolt ride to the Virtu ferry terminal in Valletta, where we boarded a catamaran for a relatively quick one-hour and 45-minute trip across the Mediterranean. The boat was surprisingly comfortable, and we discovered we had upgraded tickets to Club Class, which offered comfortable seats, plenty of coffee and snacks, and access to an aft observation deck where we could watch our departure from Valletta. We left Malta just as the sun rose in the east, gliding north thru the water toward Sicily, beyond the horizon.

We disembarked in Pozzallo, Sicily, greeted our driver Daniel. Stylish, friendly, and effortlessly charming, Daniel welcomed us to Sicily and drove us East across Sicily towards Syracuse and Ortigia where we’d start our Sicilian adventure.

Our first stop was Noto, the Golden City, and fortune smiled on us as we arrived with ample time to explore just before the busloads of tourists descended. Known for its baroque architecture and honey-colored stone, similar to that of Malta, Noto felt like stepping into a picturesque late 16th century painting of a small Sicilian hillside town. We strolled through the town, taking in the grandeur of Noto Cathedral. The town was just waking up, with shopkeepers sweeping walkways, pulling shades, and opening their doors for business. Taking advantage of the absence of crowds, we became the first customers of the day, purchasing a tablecloth, some souvenirs, and a bottle of Limoncello (as lemons are something Noto is well known for). It turned out that the Infiorata di Noto 2025 (the Noto Flower Festival) was taking place with colorful displays in the street made with flower petals from spring blossoms. For a brief moment, it felt like we had Noto all to ourselves.

From Noto, Daniel drove us onward to Ortigia, the historic island just off the town of Syracuse. Upon arriving at the Grand Hotel Ortigia, we were greeted with a pleasant surprise: a special welcome drink while we waited for our rooms to be ready. When we finally checked in, we discovered that our rooms were two stories tall, featuring a staircase leading up to the bedroom and a spacious bathtub positioned right in the center of the room. To top it off, the rooms offered a lovely view across the water to Syracuse.

Feeling a bit “hangry,” we made our way to a restaurant called Xenia, where we found a spot at an outdoor table perfect for people-watching in the shade. We ordered a bottle of Frappato and enjoyed our first taste of Sicilian cuisine, all of which was surprisingly good given we were the only people in this restaurant. After cooking for us the chef came outside to relax and we complimented his cooking.

We spent the afternoon weaving through Ortigia’s narrow alleyways, discovering hidden courtyards, ancient ruins, and shops selling spices or local crafts. Since we had a guided tour scheduled for the following day, we decided not to visit too many official sites, opting instead to simply wander and explore. We did, however, come across the simple church of Chiesa di San Filippo Apostolo, and wandered down a narrowing dead-end alley lined with “pay what you want” art displayed on the walls. There, we also encountered a beautiful-eyed cat greeting us to purchase.

We were captivated by Ortigia’s vibrant atmosphere. Unlike Mdina, which lives up to its reputation as the Silent City, Ortigia felt alive, with one alley bustling with activity while the next was quiet. Each winding path seemed to lead toward the water that surrounds the small island, creating a wondering weave of energy and serenity.

As evening fell, we found Stupor Mundi (wonder of the world), a small and welcoming restaurant near the waterfront. The menu was simple but well executed, featuring homemade pasta, grilled seafood, and Sicilian wine. The restaurant also offered great people-watching opportunities, with crowds streaming toward the open bars and booming clubs that would undoubtedly pulse and throb with loud music late into the night. We decided to skip the nightlife in favor of a good night’s sleep, feeling grateful for the day’s spontaneous discoveries and the charm of Ortigia. We had plans for another full day of exploration of Syracuse and Ortigia tomorrow.