Sabbatikos

As we approached Dubrovnik, it glowed like the sunset Aperol spritzes we had enjoyed the evening before. A midieval city of polished white limestone and vivid orange terracotta rooftops set within its 13th-century walls perched on cliffs above the Adriatic Sea. Once the proud and independent Republic of Ragusa, Dubrovnik has a rich and complex history at the edge of the Western world. It was a place where Christian Europe met the Ottoman Empire. Strategically important to both, the city maintained a careful and cautious relationship with each, serving as a kind of neutral “Switzerland” balancing itself between the East and West, Christianity and Islam, and itself between the rocky cliffs and the sea.

Today, Dubrovnik is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. It is also known to fans of Game of Thrones as the primary filming location for King’s Landing starting in Season 2, as well as for scenes set in Qarth and Slaver’s Bay. We were here to take in Dubrovnik’s history, beauty, as well as geek out on her GOT filming locations.

We began our day with a private guide, walking the smoothly worn limestone streets of Dubrovnik as she expertly blended the history of Ragusa and Croatia with parallels to George R.R. Martin’s A Song of Ice and Fire and his world of Westeros. As a professor of history, she was as well versed in historical fact as she was in the lore of Game of Thrones (she told us she has watched the entire series three times!). With each turn of a corner or climb of a stair, history blurred into fantasy. We were not just sightseeing; we were time-traveling and world-jumping, weaving between the stories of the Republic of Ragusa and the Seven Kingdoms.

We started below Lovrijenac Fortress and Fort Bokar, both jutting dramatically above the sea. From there, we looked out over the waters of the fictional Blackwater Bay imagining wildfire, flaming ships, and one of the bloodiest battles in Game of Thrones, where Stannis Baratheon nearly seized the Iron Throne from the young detestable King Joffrey. In the middle of the bay is a small stone dock. This dock served as the backdrop for some of the show’s most memorable moments. Here, Sansa Stark walked with Shae dreaming of escape. It is where Petyr Baelish (Littlefinger) whispered secrets and schemes to Sansa. And it is ultimately where Jon Snow said goodbye to Bran, Arya, and Sansa at the end of the show.

We stepped inside Lovrijenac Fortress to visit several iconic filming locations, including the site of the pivotal exchange between Cersei Lannister and Littlefinger. In that unforgettable scene, he warns her that “knowledge is power,” and she delivers her pointed reply: “power is power.” The view from the top of Lovrijenac Fortress was inspiring and the upper ramparts here were also used for many scenes.

We passed through the Pile Gate, one of only two entrances into the walled city. It is the threshold through which the Starks, Lannisters, Tyrells, and many other noble houses once walked as they entered the fabled city walls of King’s Landing (Dubrovnik).

Our guide led us through the quiet alleys and grand staircases of Old Town, pausing where Cersei took her infamous “walk of atonement” (shame, shame!) and pointed out the Jesuit Steps, Littlefinger’s brothel (which we had seen from season one’s filming location in Mdina, Malta), and many other locations where scenes had played out across Old Town. The production spent about four years in Dubrovnik, and our guide described it as a surreal time to live there. She recalled turning a corner and seeing a camel, or waiting in line at the market next to someone still in full costume, as if Westeros had casually spilled into daily life.

We then ascended the walls to end our Dubrovnik portion of the tour with the two kilometers of the wall surrounding the city. Walking the walls of Dubrovnik was stunning. It is hard to image this place is real. With panoramic views of the sea on one side, steep rocky mountains on the other, and terracotta rooftops in between, it was easy to see why this setting became the capital of Westeros. Along the ramparts, scenes from Game of Thrones came to life, Tyrion strategizing before battle, guards patrolling, and even a scene with Daenerys Targaryen. Every tower and turn held a memory from the show and a breathtaking view of the Old Town below.

By early afternoon, we boarded a public boat to Lokrum Island, just offshore. Lokrum is a small island retreat popular with both locals and tourists, where peacocks and park create a peaceful contrast to throngs of tourists of Dubrovnik’s Old Town. On the island, amid the ruins of a Benedictine Monastery, was where Qarth and the House of the Undying was filmed. Our guide recounted how the Mother of Dragons faced her mysterious trials here. There is even a replica of the Iron (well, resin) Throne where visitors can pose for photos. We skipped the photo op and chose instead to wander the quiet paths, outnumbered by peacocks.

With the tour complete and our heads overwhelmed by history and fantasy, we returned to town for a late lunch at a marina-side restaurant. Fresh seafood, salty air, and a chilled glass of local wine reset us.

The rest of the day was ours to roam. We browsed shops tucked into alleys, picked up handcrafted souvenirs and locally made snacks, and returned to spots we had only glimpsed before, with new meaning. Every statue, gate, stairwell, and building felt layered with stories. Including the discovery of the Relic of the Incorruptible Saint Silvan and some history of the Homeland War where Dubrovnik was struck.

It was a hot afternoon, and we were feeling overwhelmed by the crowds of Dubrovnik, as well as the amount of walking and information we had taken in. By early evening, we caught a bus back to our hotel, and stepped into the refreshing 18°C (64°F) waters of the Adriatic to cool our sore feet.

After a brisk and refreshing plunge, we enjoyed an outdoor sunset dinner at the hotel restaurant and recounted an incredible day. Between ancient walls, fantasy worlds, and the beauty of the Dalmatian coast, Dubrovnik had carved out a warm place in our hearts.