Sabbatikos

We were meant to arrive in Hvar with faces kissed by salty sea spray, having cruised up the Dalmatian Coast aboard a chartered boat with a stop in Korčula for exploration and lunch. But Neptune had other plans. His forecast of high winds, heavy seas, and thunderstorms made it clear that our sea-dreams were not to be. Our boat was canceled.

We were deeply disappointed, as this journey was meant to be a highlight of our trip. I had sailed the Dalmatian coast with my parents on a chartered sailboat some thirty years ago, and I had hoped to share the beauty of these islands and that experience with my family.

Our plan B was a hastily arranged car and driver, trading the sea for a 200-kilometer journey through Croatia’s stunning interior. Thankfully, the relatively new Pelješac Bridge, opened just three years ago, allowed us to avoid the old border detour through Bosnia and Herzegovina and instead follow safer route up the coast via the Pelješac Peninsula. From there, we caught a short 30-minute ferry from Drvenik to Hvar Island, then continued with a 1.5-hour drive along a narrow, winding road that stretched across the island’s lengthy spine. Despite the unsettled weather, the drive was beautiful, taking us through small seaside towns, vineyards, and sweeping coastal vistas.

We were dropped off at Hvar port, where we continued to our hotel on foot. Hvar Town is pedestrian-only and immediately enchanted us with its quaint charm. Cobblestone piazzas, with glistening puddles beneath the parting clouds and Dalmatian sun, led us along the waterfront to the Adriana Hvar Spa Hotel. Hvar greeted us like a new friend with whom you instantly connect. A crescent-shaped limestone port hugged the sea, anchored by a medieval central plaza and cathedral, a bustling waterfront lined with boats, bars, and restaurants, and a Spanish Fortress looming above, watching over this special place like a sentry.

After settling in, we wandered the town’s alleyways and stairwells in search of lunch. We soon stumbled upon Fig Restaurant, tucked into a quiet back alley just off the main square. The food was incredibly fresh and delicious, and the staff was warm and welcoming. Though the place was packed, we did not wait long for a table. When the food and drinks arrived, they were met with oohs, ahhs, and exclamations of “OMG, this is so delicious…”

With the weather fully turned and the sky clear, we decided to walk off lunch with a climb to Fortica Španjola, the 16th-century Spanish Fortress perched above the town. The path wound its way through steps, alleyways, and then into the hills beyond the rooftops. Originally built by the Venetians to guard the harbor from Ottoman threats, the fortress had since watched over centuries of boats and the new threat of tourists. We explored the fort and the commanding views it provided. One highlight was its stone prison cells, dark and carved into the cliff deep below the fort, gave off claustrophobic vibes of the Sky Cells of the Eyrie where Tyrion was held by Lysa Arryn. The panoramic view from the top was jaw-dropping: terra-cotta rooftops, azure waters, and distant islands fading into haze of storms still passing out towards the island of Vis.

Upon the end of our descent, we rewarded ourselves with a cocktail at Ka’lavanda Bar, strategically located at the edge of a square with perfect people-watching views of Saint Stephen’s Cathedral and its iconic bell tower. As we sipped, savored and spied, we plotted our dinner. We had passed Giaxa on the way down, a restaurant housed in a 15th-century palace and it looked really interesting. The atmosphere caught our eye, and a quick look at the menu convinced us to book a table for dinner before taking a walk around town.

After a quick break back at the hotel to freshen up, we returned to Giaxa, where dinner was delicious, elegant, and relaxed across many courses. Tawny and I wrapped up the evening with a quiet stroll back to the hotel, while Clara and Ian followed the call of “fishbowls” at the waterfront bars.

Tomorrow promised us our boating adventure, with sea caves and island-hopping that we had missed today. We had booked an early morning boat ride to the famed Blue Cave and a day exploring the island of Vis where a friend of mine’s parents had lived for a number of years. We were disappointed to miss our intended journey by boat and the chance to explore Korčula, but the Dalmatian coast offered its own dramatic beauty by road, and Hvar felt like being welcomed by a new fast friend.